Water supply requirements, Leveling, Connect water supply – KITCHENAID ICEMAKER Manuel d'utilisation

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Recommended grounding method

For your personal safety, this appliance must be grounded. This
appliance is equipped with a power supply cord having a 3 prong
grounding plug. To minimize possible shock hazard, the cord
must be plugged into a mating, 3 prong, grounding-type wall
receptacle, grounded in accordance with the National Electrical
Code and local codes and ordinances. If a mating wall receptacle
is not available, it is the personal responsibility of the customer to
have a properly grounded, 3 prong wall receptacle installed by a
qualified electrician.

Water Supply Requirements

A cold water supply with water pressure of between 30 and
120 psi (207 - 827 kPa) is required to operate the ice maker. If
you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed,
qualified plumber.

Reverse Osmosis Water Supply

IMPORTANT: The pressure of the water supply coming out of a
reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the ice
maker needs to be between 30 and 120 psi (207 - 827 kPa).

If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your
cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis
system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 - 414 kPa).
The reverse osmosis system must provide 1 gal (3.79L) of water
per hour to the ice maker for proper ice maker operation.

If the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system is less than
40 to 60 psi (276 - 414 kPa):

Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse
osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.

Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill
after heavy usage.

If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed,
qualified plumber.

Leveling

It is important for the ice maker to be level in order to work
properly. Depending upon where you install the ice maker, you
may need to make several adjustments to level it. You may also
use the leveling legs to lower the height of the ice maker for
undercounter installations.

Tools needed:

Gather the required tools and parts before starting installation.

Carpenter’s level

Adjustable wrench

NOTE: It is easier to adjust the leveling legs if you have another
person to assist you.

1. Move the ice maker to its final location.

NOTE: If this is a built-in installation, move the ice maker as
close as possible to the final location.

2. Place a carpenter’s level on top of the product to see if the ice

maker is level from front to back and side to side.

3. Push up on the top front of the ice maker, and then locate the

leveling screws that are on the bottom front of the ice maker.

4. Using an adjustable wrench, change the height of the legs as

follows:

Turn the leveling leg to the right to lower that side of the
ice maker.

Turn the leveling leg to the left to raise that side of the ice
maker.

NOTE: The ice maker should not wobble. Use shims to add
stability when needed.

5. Push up on the top rear of the ice maker and locate the

leveling legs that are on the bottom rear of the ice maker.

6. Follow the instructions in Step 4 to change the height of the

legs.

7. Use a carpenter’s level to recheck the ice maker to see that it

is even from front to back and side to side. If the ice maker is
not level, repeat steps 3 to 6. If the ice maker is level, go to
the “Connect Water Supply” section.

Connect Water Supply

Read all directions thoroughly before you begin.
IMPORTANT:

Plumbing shall be installed in accordance with the
International Plumbing Code and any local codes and
ordinances.

Use copper tubing and check for leaks.

Install copper tubing only in areas where temperatures will
remain above freezing.

Tools needed:

Gather the required tools and parts before starting installation.
Read and follow the instructions provided with any tools listed
here.

Flat-blade screwdriver

⁷⁄₁₆" and ¹⁄₂" open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches

¹⁄₄" nut driver

¹⁄₄" drill bit

Hand drill or electric drill properly grounded

NOTE: Your ice maker dealer has a kit available with a

¹⁄₄"

(6.35 mm) saddle-type shutoff valve, a union, and copper tubing.
Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with
your local plumbing codes. Do not use a piercing-type or

³⁄₁₆"

(4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more
easily.

Connecting the water line

1. Turn off main water supply. Turn on nearest faucet long

enough to clear line of water.

2. Find a

¹⁄₂" (12.70 mm) to 1¹⁄₄" (3.18 cm) vertical cold water

pipe near the ice maker.

NOTE: Horizontal pipe will work, but the following procedure
must be followed: Drill on the top side of the pipe, not the
bottom. This will help keep water away from the drill. This
also keeps normal sediment from collecting in the valve.

3. Using a grounded drill, drill a

¹⁄₄" (6.35 mm) hole in the cold

water pipe you have selected.

4. Fasten shutoff valve to cold water pipe with pipe clamp. Be

sure outlet end is solidly in the

¹⁄₄" (6.35 mm) drilled hole in the

water pipe and that washer is under the pipe clamp. Tighten
packing nut. Tighten the pipe clamp screws carefully and
evenly so washer makes a watertight seal. Do not overtighten
the pipe clamp or you may crush cold water pipe if it is soft
copper tubing. Do not use a piercing-type or

³⁄₁₆" (4.76 mm)

saddle-type valve which reduces water flow and clogs more
easily.

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